it sounds like you know what you're looking for to be in a 'good' mod and what will be fishy. So why don't you open up the system and see if you can spot it?
Personally, I still use a CDX for that stuff.
Hello. I've got a poor Dreamcast here on which the swap trick mod has been 'performed.' You know the pull-up-the-battery-and-tie-back-the-lid-detector technique. Well, the crowd that did this mod originally didn't tie back the lid detector thing with an elastic band. They did something else that I can't spot.
I've looked at the switch but it behaves normally and I can't see any foreign soldering anywhere over or under the switch. But just because I can't see it but that doesn't mean it's not there, of course. They must have done something to it to make the DC think that the lid is always shut. I think it was RavenGames in the UK who did this awful thing. Does anyone have any clue what they might have done so that I can undo it? Maybe you've even had the same thing done with an early DC of your own. I certainly don't fancy sending it all the way back to the UK to have them undo it. Help?
it sounds like you know what you're looking for to be in a 'good' mod and what will be fishy. So why don't you open up the system and see if you can spot it?
Personally, I still use a CDX for that stuff.
Originally Posted by Diff-chan
So much ****ing semen.
get a new lid?
what exactly is your dc doing that you dont like?
No, you see the lid is fine and it pushes the little switch back like it should - You know that little switch in the back right hand corner of the DC. But push the switch back or leave it forward and the DC still thinks that the lid is shut. The DC should reset to the main menu when the switch is released but it doesn't. They've obviously tinkered with the switch to keep the connection closed permanently.
I've opened up the DC and looked at the switch, around the switch and below the switch at the board underneath but I still can't find what they did. I'm obviously missing something. But what?
Unashamed Sink Urinator.
maybe the switch itself is bad? I dont remember exactly, but its it switch closed when the lip is open or closed? the switch could just be stuck...
“The very existence of flame-throwers proves that some time, somewhere, someone said to themselves, you know, I want to set those people over there on fire, but I'm just not close enough to get the job done.” -George Carlin
Remember kids, chewing gum and electronic don't mix.
The switch functions like it should; I can even take off the cover of the DC and push the switch back and let it spring forward and the game will carry on playing as if the switch is still held back. The lid is supposed to close on the switch, keeping it back. When the lid opens the switch should spring forward and the DC should reset to the main menu. Mine won't do that and it often makes playing multiple disc games impossible. Boot discs won't work either. Not to mention changing games without turning off the console.Originally posted by Wildkat
maybe the switch itself is bad? I dont remember exactly, but its it switch closed when the lip is open or closed? the switch could just be stuck...
Unashamed Sink Urinator.
It physicaly works, but does it electricaly? do you have a multimeter? what I was thinking was the switch may physicaly move, but never actually open/close the circuit.
“The very existence of flame-throwers proves that some time, somewhere, someone said to themselves, you know, I want to set those people over there on fire, but I'm just not close enough to get the job done.” -George Carlin
That's exactly what's happening. The switch is fine but somehow they've either cut a connection or, more likely, soldered a connection permanently to make it like the switch is pushed back permanently.Originally posted by Wildkat
what I was thinking was the switch may physicaly move, but never actually open/close the circuit.
I was hoping that someone might have experience with this and be able to tell me where they would have done this, or at least where is the most likely place to look for an irregularity. Once I've found it then I can fix it. I haven't got a multimeter though.
For the sake of closure on this old thread, I found why the switch wasn't working. The old Japanese DC has two pieces of metal at the front and back of the base of the switch. They soldered a (very) thin piece of wire across these two on the inside to keep the switch 'closed' permanently. Newer DCs seem to have a different switch without the exposted metal underneath.
Thanks and goodnight.
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