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Thread: A bit of a long shot (1/12: Ikaruga necktie pic added)

  1. A bit of a long shot (1/12: Ikaruga necktie pic added)

    So I'm thinking the Ikaruga logo would look fetching on a black tie. Unfortunately I have no knowledge of painting on fabric and no desire to take up needlepoint.

    Questions for anyone in the know:

    1. Recommend any opaque and permanent pigment markers (preferred) or paints that work well on fabric?

    2. I've noticed the craft paints at Wal-Mart are pretty thick, can they be thinned effectively or is there thinner paint out there for fabric use?

    3. Experience with the durablity of such paint would be great too, such as prone to cracking, flaking, or bleeding.

    Any advice is helpful, I know this is a odd request but I think there's potential for something neat to come of it. *-neo

  2. I can't honestly say that I have, but I have thought about it.

    By fabric, I assume you don't mean velvet elvis' but T-shirts, leather, and clothing items. Or at least something close enough to make this useful, (I hope)

    I once worked at a craft and hobby store called Pat Catan's. I don't know if it is a national chain, It was hard to tell. But I imagine every major area has a variant of the store.

    The wal mart paints you describe sound like "puffy paints" they come in small bottles and tend to apply really thick. Getting the most out of these usually requires a lot of practice. You have the option to apply it directly from the tube, or use an applicator, like a brush or stylus.

    Paint Markers are becoming all the rage now, and I have done some two-tone work on a blue canvas bag that used to plug a medical center using a black sharpie and the newer silver variant. Paint markers are at their best when they are stored upside down, or in the case of double sided markers, whichever side you plan to use the most.

    Naturally, this is no problem at home, but if you take markers on the road you have to get creative.

    For sheer detail, you may want to invest in an airbrush. Airbrushes are a double edged sword. It will cost you hundreds to buy the initial equipment if you buy quality (not always the most expensive, shop around!) but the maintenence, if done religiously will cost you pennies a day as long as you keep your machines and nozzles in good shape. And especially your lungs, don't even hold your brush without wearing even a basic dustmask. The atomized paint will never leave your lungs, (even tobacco will eventually)

    With airbrush, you really have a lot of versatility, and the options of great acryllic paints, inks, dyes, anything that will atomize. Still, look at labels for the spray icon that makes it official.

    Buying airbrush paint is quite simple, if you know ahead of time what you need. If you don't, buy the primaries and secondaries, and buy a good book on color mixing. Every color has a warm and cool equivalent. (ex. Cadmium Yellow is warm, with a higher red quotient, Whereas Lemon Yellow is slightly bluish) If you wish to splurge buy the hot and cold versions of the primaries and secondaries. You can do some amazing things if you learn the warm/cold relationships.

    Pat Catan's sold a brand of airbrush specific acryllic paints called Liquitex, as well as empty bottles, (you will want to learn to mix colors early on, and special variants of what you have.)

    Airbrushing relies heavily on stencilling. Especially creating your own stencils, you will need to make the sections of your stencils removable and replaceable. Say, for working on a woman's eposed shoulder, without worrying if you will get flesh tone on the scarf you colored all of last night.

    Although there are many pre-made ones. Your best option when beginning is to create your own using a thin layer of dried rubber cement on the back of a sheet of bristol board which you have cut with an x-acto knife. Naturally you want to draw out all of your major color areas.

    Don't go directly to your favorite leather jacket or it's equivalent, do some practice on canvas sheets or inexpensive clothing items. You may create your favorite shirt by accident.

    You may be surprised how common everyday items loow when used as an airbrush item. One of our demo reps at the art store told me that his most popular item at high schools is an old style potato masher. He would just press it against some kid's jeans, blast it with a wide spray, and when it was removed, there was a wiggly unpainted line in it's place. Everyone wanted it done.

    Now, you mentioned brush paintings. Sadly, I know nothing of doing fabrics with brushes. You may want to look up the aforementioned Velvet Elvis' and Velvet Jesus paintings. I am quite sure that the technique works on al fabrics. Yur main worry is paint. You may want to buy the Liquitex paints regardless of your application. They are made to last on fabric when properly treated with heat. (you either throw the finished product in the dryer, or use a blow dryer, Or even specialized hot air guns for embossing (less air, more heat).

    Whew, I sure gave you a loaded answer. Keep in mind, I have gotten all this from observation, and not actual practice.

    I have been too poor for the air pumps and brushes, and I have no place to put them anyway, and I would rather stick with photoshop for now. Seeing as I have already put hundreds into Adobe's Bank account as it is.

    Good luck! hope it helps *nervous grin*
    Only you can stop sig pollution.

  3. Sorry to reply late, thanks for the advice sir.

    I'm going to use paint markers for the logo and try aribrush for another design on the tie. I've taken several classes in airbrush while in college and have all the paint and equipment minus a air compressor...which I've been meaning to pick up for a while. Thanks again. *-neo

  4. First off, I'd like to apologize for the image. A friend was kind enough to scan the tie for me but I'll probably rescan it another time.

    Ikaruga Black Necktie

    The logo and ship are not perfect but I'm happy with the results and learned alot through the process. The lines were added after noticing I missed the center of the tie. The ship's "halo" is airbrush and the ship/logo are deco paint marker which is almost like a enamel. The tie was very absorbment, requiring up to seven layers of paint to form a solid, non-bleeding pattern. BTW fabric markers were nearly useless, the pigment basically disappeared on the cloth. The scan was taken after a healthy night out on the town, the tie held up but a bit of paint scrapped off.

    In all this was a simple pattern to try out, next up I'm thinking a Dodonpachi Dai-ou-jou tie. Appreciate any feedback. *-neo

  5. That's pretty slick Neo

  6. Neato. I think I'd have gone for a simple silhouette of the ship personally, though.

  7. I still want a shirt thats half white and half black.

    That way when someone throws a mechanical pencil that just so happens to be colored black, I can flip around and absorb the blow!

  8. Thanks gents, I'll have a chance to rescan it tomorrow, if it's passable I'll throw up another picture.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mode7
    Neato. I think I'd have gone for a simple silhouette of the ship personally, though.
    With or without the halo? Without, I can see that working, but with the halo... I do agree the ship's colors could blend better, maybe a white ink wash overtop. *-neo

  9. You know what would be cool?

    Have one side of the tie white, the other black. Then just invert the color of the kanji and ship to correspond. It's like having two ties in one!
    Quote Originally Posted by Diff-chan View Post
    Careful. We're talking about games here. Fun isn't part of it.

  10. Another scan of the tie:

    Quote Originally Posted by Hero
    You know what would be cool?

    Have one side of the tie white, the other black. Then just invert the color of the kanji and ship to correspond. It's like having two ties in one!
    I'll have to take up sewing, given most ties are a mess of stitching in back . Here's a quick sketch incorporating some of the ideas:

    I think I'll devote more time to concept sketchs before jumping in on the next tie. *-neo


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