I think they are both good, ut I see what you are talking about with the arm.
Perhaps if you tried it again, you could move the head further back on the neck, shrink it down to roughly half the size. Make the forearm of the spear hand taper outward at the elbow joint instead of inward. Keep the Forearm the same, except double it's scale all around, length, width, the whole nine yards.
It is a good angle, but the arm is bothering you because it just does not seem to be coming at the viewer, though the drawing suggests it should. The Spear seems to be coming at the viewer at both the head and the handle.
Judging by the positin of the hand, you may get best results Shrinking the head into the distance, and making the bottom of the handle come at the viewer, getting wider as it goes lower, and showing the flat plane at the lower end.
You really should not start over, but lay tracing paper ove the image and change only the elements mentioned. Just because professionals don't admit to doing that, doesn't mean they don't.
Scanning Tracing paper is easilly done, just lay it over a solid, very white piece of bristol or about ten pages of good quality, blank white Printer/typing pages.
One of the first things I learned in Graphic design was that it never matters what the original looks like, it is what you can make the camera see. My class assignments photographed nicely, but the originals were encrusted with white out, and even sections of the top layer of the board cut out completely and pasted in with the top layer of another boar cut to size.
I even did a perfect cut and paste by putting yellow post it-notes over a bad section and photocopying it with adjusted brightness so that you would not know it was ever there.
Only you can stop sig pollution.
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